Knitted fabric and process of making the same



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KNITTED FABRIC AND PROCESS OF MAKING THE SAHE Filed 061.). 50, 1929 4 Sheets-Shee l May 19, 1931. w HQUSEMAN I 1,805,624

KNITTED FABRIC AND PROCESS- OF MAKING THE SAME- Filed Oct. 30, 1929 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 576.3. m 72 Q P a m C i) "m"! I I I I 7 fwd 9&4! -m/AWL .ymmn

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KNITTED FABRiC AND PROCESS OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Oct. 30, 1929 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 772 TI 0 f) PM PM r PM a c 5 c b 5 L C a a a y f e 5 f 2.. f i e e y e N -v -v v r 8 ,z,

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Patented May 19, 1931 7 UNITED s'rA'r s PATENT OFFICE wrmarra 1.. newsman, or sounn'ron, PENNSYLVANIA, essrenoa 'ro s'rmnnnn TRUMP 3110s. mourns company, or wnunveron, DELAWARE, A. conronnrron' or nnnnwann KNITTED FABRIC PROCESS OF MAKING THE SAME Application filed October 30, 1929. Serial No. 403,992.

This invention relates to a plated knitted fabric and process of making the same, and relates specifically to a fabric of this type exhibiting multicolored effects of a pecuhar type atterns of diiferent colors have been produced in knitted fabrics by simultaneously feeding two, three or more threads to knitting needles and so manipulating the threads 1001 Ineedles so as to cause either reverse plating or floating. The manipulation of two' threads in various manners is well known in the art. Satisfactory methods of manipulating two or morethreads are disclosed, for

exam la, in an .application of William J.

Schu ert, filed June 6, 1929, Serial Np. 368,-

828 and in my prior applications, filed February 12', 1929 and February 20,1929, Serial Nos. 339,335 and 341,374, respectively. Ihe

type of mechanism used in my said afpphcations is utilized in a preferred form 0 mechanism below described. for carrying out the new process. g

" The broad object of the present invention may be said to be the production hf a knitted fabric of the plated type exhibit/1%? peculiar multicolored efi'ects. More spec ally the invention has reference to fabrics of this character in which a great multiplicity of pattern and color effects may be obtained without the necessit Fig. 3 is a diagrammat c elevation of onetype of the new fabric producible by the mechanism; j

Figs. 4 and 5 are sectional detail views showing portions of the mechanism; 1

Figs. 6 and are views illustrating the general appearance of two fabrics falling within'the scope of the invention;

of frequent yarn changes or theproduction of an objectionably tionwill be made clearer 1n the following after referred to as the Fig. 8 is a dia am showing how other fabrics may be pro need in accordance with the invention;

Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 2 showing a mechanism for producing the elaborate forms of fabrics of Fig. 8; and

Fig. 10 is an enlarged diagrammatic elevation of a portion of one form of the improved fabric.

The rotary knitting machine which is disclosed comprises a rotating needle cylinder in which the needles 2 are slidably mounted in the usual manner. In this machine the needles areimoved up and down in a knitting Wave to form stitches at two stitching points by cams 4 and 6 respectively so that the successive courses formed by a thread or threads fed to the needles at one stitching point are separated by intermediate courses formed by a thread or threads fed to the needles at the other stitching point.

The usual latch ring 8 is located above the needle cylinder and the usual sinker dial 10 in which sinkers 12 are slidably'mounted to cooperate with the needles. Below the sinker dial andalso revolving with the needle cyl inder isj'a jack, dial 14 in slots in which jacks 16 are slidably mounted to engage pressers 18 and, thereby deflect the hook ends of the needles inwardly, the jacks being moved at the proper X times by cam arms 20 and 22 (four of each being illustrated) engaging with suitably located butts formed on the jacks in different vertical positions. This mechanism is of the general type disclosed in 111 applications Serial Nos. 209,383 and 341,3 4, filed July 29, 1927 and February 20,

1929, respectively.

At one stitching point, which vill be hereprimary stitching point, three fingers 24, 26 and 28 feed yarns a, b, and 0, respectively, to the needles as shown in Fig.2, the yarns being preferably under decreasing tensions in the order a, b and 0. While yarns b and c are fed to the outside of the circle of needles so as to be al- Ways engaged thereby, the yarn a is fed to 8.,P01I1t1l1S1d6 the normal circle so that unless needles are deflected inwardly adjacent yarnefinger 24 they will failto engageyairn a which consequently flbats. It is the iunc tion of cam arm 22 to press the needles.

inwardly at this point when they are to engage the yarn a. The cam serves todeflect the needles rearwardly during the yarndrawing movement at the primary stitching point to reverse the yarns then in the hook thereof.

These cams are operated by the usual pattern control mechanism.

In the modification of Figs. 1 'and 2', a single finger feeds a yarn d to the needles through a throat 32 in the latch ring at the secondary stitching point. As illustrated in secondary stitching point, the construction of Fig. 9 shows an arrangement of fingers and cam arms at the secondary stitching point similar to that at the primary stitching point. That is, three fingers 34, 36 and 38 feeding yarns e, f and g, respectively, are provided, the needles being deflected inwardly -to'engage yarn e by one of the group ofca'm arms 42 and to reverse plate 'theyarns by 'one'of the group of cam arms 40; The tensions of the yarns decrease in the order e, i, All of the fingers are arranged to be independent:

1y removed or simultaneously remove'd'in the same manner and under the same conditions as arm 30. v Although preferred'mechamsms are disclosed it will be clear hereafter that the improved process may be carried out to' form the new fabrics by the use of other mechanisms: the type of mechanism disclosed in .the Schubert application referred toabove,

for example, may be used in connection with two stitching points to carryout the process.

' yarns a, b and c are shown together with the- The 'varlous features of the process and new fabric will be clear by first considering the mechanism of Fig. 9 and the diagram of Fig. 8. In the diagram the possible constitutlon of the primary courses formed by constitution of the intermediate secondary -courses formed by yarns e, f and-g, it beingunderstood that a wale of the fabric consists of l ops alternately in the primary and secondary courses;

The terms primary and, secondary courses used herein are not intended to imply.

that one is subsidiary to the other; this terminology being merely to' avoid con-.

. fusion.

If, three yarns band: 0, the needles-are deflected inward y 'by cam 22 so as to engage yarn a, and cam 20 is retracted from the jacks, loopsof the type illustrated at ortion m of the course are produced in which all three yarns are knitted in the order a, b, c, yarn a appearing on the face.

By maintaining cam 22 in the same position and by defiectingthe needles inwardly by cam 20, the three yarns are reversed in the loops in the order 0, b, a, as illustrated in portion n of thecourse.

,If both cams are retracted from the jacks,

yarn a floats and the others are knit into the loops in the order I), c, as shown in portion 0 of the course.' 7

If cam 22 remains retracted but the needles are deflected inwardly by cam 20, loop a still floats but yarns b and 0 are knitted into the loops in the reverse orderc, b, as in portion p. w

Using the mechanism of the Schubert application, similar portions may be produced, the order in the triple reverse portion, however, being a, 'a, b.

By similar manipulations of cams 40 and 42 using the three yarns e, f and g, similar portions 51, r, s, t may .be produced in the secondary course as indicated in Fig.

The enormous variety of designs producible will be obvious, inasmuch as the various I port ons of similar loops in theprimary and secondary courses may be bounded by different wales as diagrammatically illustrated in Fig. 8 in which, for example, wales may consist of loops of a this manner most elaborate. designs may be produced by pattern mechanisms operating 'thecams. i

Clearly the six yarns not be of differortion gof the secondary course lined up with loops of portions "n, 0 and p of the'primary course. In'

ent shades or colors norneed all of the'yarns be used. When six yarns are used very intricate designs maybe produced while neveryarns, whereby the needless .can properly theless no loop contains more than three '110 handle the yarns and a fabric of light weight may be produced withoutv using very light- 7 Although three yarns are used in both the prlmary and secondary courses, and give a very large number. of'variations of design,

more yarns may obviously beused; for ex-v ample, tw'o yarns instead ofone, a, may be T used alternately floated to therebyproduce additional effects. Yarn changes in either of the courses may serve While two ed courses;

' order,'parts' of difierently oonstitue' to further increase the variations. 1

"stitching points. are. shownv forming primary and secondary courses'in Y inta The most elaborate formof fabric having a maximum number of variations has been described. There will now. be considered several simpler but characteristic specific types of the fabric.

First, let it be assumed that either all three or any two of the yarns a, b and c are used while only one yarn d is used either guided by one finger of the mechanism of Fig. 9 or guided'by the single finger of the simpier mechanism .of F1g, 2, which latter is articularly designed for this type of fabric.

esigns willthen be produced by the manipulation of the yarns a, b and a by plating,

. reverse plating or floating in various combinations while the yarn (1 will form" continuous successive courses of solid color as illustrated in Fig. 3, giving an appearance such as illustrated in Fig. 6' of a background containing designs viewed through the bars of a grating of the color of the yarn d. In

Fig. 3 itvwill be noted that stitches of all four varieties m, n, 0 and p occur in the primary courses. In the fabric of Fig. 6 only 1 on the surface.

two of the yarns are used in the primary courses.

Similar effects with elongated multicolored bars are readily obtainable if more yarns than one are used in the secondary courses.

Another specific effect is easily obtained in simulation of the well known wrap effects. If a single yarn d is used in the secondary course and the yarn a is plated only in isolated chosen loops, being, preferably, floated behind the other loops, an effect similar to that shown in Fig. 7 is obtained, the yarn a, which is shownas solid black in that figure, appearing at points in a manner resembling a wrap yarn. If the yarn a is floated between its isolated appearances on the face of the fabric, the long floats are preferably cut from the fabric. One of the other yarns may, of course, be brought to the surface to I give the wrap effect, bein hidden elsewhere by plating. Or long oats of yarn a can be avoided by generally hiding the yarn a in loops of the type 0%. Instead of one yarn only being used in the secondary courses, others may. also be used in connection with the wrap eifect.

In the fabric just discussed the wrap efiect is produced by a'yarn in one group of courses only. If yarns in both rimary and secondary courses are used to orm wrap effects by being brought to the surface in isolated loops, veryiintricate results may be ob tained since effects are producible which appear to result from two crossed wrap yarns, such eflects being generally unobtainable by actual wrapping because of interference of the two yarns. Of course, if three or more difi'erent sets of courses are used very elaborate wrap elfects are producible.

Fig. 10 shows an example of the elaborate cut out. 5

effects producible by using'six yarns even though all the possible arrangements are not used. In this figure the yarns and illustrative loops are designated in accordance with Fig. 8. It will be seen that yarns a and eare used to produce wrap effects by being brought to the surface of a few isolated loops. These yarns are handled diiferentlya Yarn e is floated behind all the loops except the I isolated ones in which it appears on the sur- On the other hand, yarn a is i hind loops 0 only. If the loops 0 are relatively few, the yarn a will extend continuously along the successive courses without the formation of long floats which must be An illustratio of how a grating eifect is secured is given in the second course in Fig. 10 in all of the loops of which yarn g-appears Besidesthe advantages of the production of elaborate designs in a simple manner and without necessitating the formation of unduly heavy fabrics, the use of a plurality of courses increases the speed of production number-of series of courses or yarns, or the like, is referred to, it is not intended, unless specifically so stated, to exclude other series of courses or yarns not referred to; for example, where it is stated that a loop includes two'yarns, it is not intended to exclude the presence of a thirdyarn in-the loop designated.

What I claim and desire to ters Patent is:

1. A knitted fabric including at least two series of courses with courses of one series between successive courses of the other series, the two series being formed by separate yarns, the courses of one series having one portion in which two yarns are knit into loops with one of the yarns overlying the other of the yarns, and another portion in which the two yarns are knit into loops with the second yarn overlying the first yarn.

2. A knitted fabric including at least two series of courses with courses of one series between successive courses of the other series, the two series being formed by separate yarns, the courses of one series having one portion in which two yarns are knit into loops with one of the yarns overlying the other of the yarns, and another portion in which only the first of the said yarns is knit into loops.

3. A knitted fabric including at least two series of courses with courses of one series between successive courses of the other series,

. I the two series being formed by separate yarns, the courses'of one ser1es having one portion .7 in which two yarns are knit into loops with one of the yarns overlying the other of the yarns, another portion in which the two yarns are knit into loops with the second yarn over-' .lyinglthe first yarn, and still another portion in w ichonly one of the said yarns is knit into 100 s. I 4. A lEnitted fabric including at least two series of courses with courses of one series between successive courses of the other series, the two series being formed by separate yarns, the courses of one series having one portion in which three yarns are arranged in one predetermined manner with one of the yarns appearing on'the surface, and another portion in which another yarn'appears on the surface.

2 5: A knitted fabric including at least two series of courses with courses of one series between successive courses of the other series, the two series being formed by separate yarns, the courses of one series having one portioninwhich three yarns are arranged in onep'redetermined manner with one of the yarns appearing on the surface, and another Eplrtion in which the other two yarns are itted'into loops in plated relationship. 80 6. A knitted fabric including at least two series 'of courses with courses of one series between successive courses of the other series, the two series being formed by separate yarns, the courses of one series haying one 85 portion in which three yarns are arranged in one predetermined manner w1th one of the yarns ap earing on the surface, another portion in w ich the other two yarns are knitted into loops in plated relationship, and still 7 another portion inwhich the last mentioned two yarns are knitted'into loops in a reverse plated relationship.

7. The process of knitting a fabric which includes manipulating needles and cooperat- 'ing members at, atleast, twospaced points to form loops in yarns fed to the needles adjacent said points, and manipulating the yarns at one of the points to selectively produce normal or reverse plating of a plurali: ty of yarns at that oint. v

' 1 8. The process 0 knitting a fabric which includes manipulating needles and cooperat- I ing members at, at least, two spaced points to form loops in yarns fed to the needles adjacent said points, and manipulatin the yarns at one of the points to selective y produce loops containing a plurality of the yarns in normal or reverse plated relationship, or to cause at least one, of the arms to float.

. In testimony of which lnvention, I have hereunto set my hand, at Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, on this'28th da of October,- 1929.

WILBUR HOUSEMAN;

not

DISCLAIMER 1,805,624.-Wilbw" L. Houseman, Somerton, Pa. KNITTED FABRIC AND PROCESS OF MAKING THE SAME. Patent dated May 19, 1931. Disclaimer filed JulylB, 1936, by the assignee, Standard- Trump Bros. Machine Company. Hereby enters this disclaimer as to claims 1 and 7 in said specification.

[Oficial Gazette August 18, 1986.] 

